RIP Sammy

There are some experienced drivers that need to read the  Race Day Procedure located here: http://rcexcitement.handruin.com/index.php?topic=3629.0

I included the part about putting the car down in the rack. However, the part I want the experienced racers to notice is the part about marshalling. Note that it doesn't say anything about finding a marshal location and stand there with 2 or 3 of your buddies and discuss the previous race, and ignore the race director when he asks you all to split up and find different corners while the race is happening. There are many reasons why the race ran long on Sunday...

When your race ends.

Pull your car off the track immediately, shut it off, then immediately go out to a marshalling position to marshal the next race.

DO NOT return to your pit, this will just delay the next race.

Marshalling a race.

Watch the track areas near your location, and assist any vehicle that has flipped or become stuck.  Remain alert, and remember to watch your area... not the race!

Do not throw the vehicles; quickly but calmly return the vehicle to approximately where it came off the track in the right direction.  Do not place it in front of on coming traffic.

Marshal as you would want to be marshaled.

After you are done marshalling.

Pick up your car and bring it back to the pits

If you only have one battery cool it down with a fan and as soon as it is cool put it back on the charger

Go over your entire car again to make sure there is nothing broken, and if there is fix it.

WD40 will help remove the water, however, WD40 is not a lubricant as it evaporates. You need an actual oil like thin engine oil or 3 in 1.

Sorry Dave. Just a roadie looking to fill in the locals about the finals, seeing they were back for 2 days and said nothing about their wonderful slip-n-slide experience. Personally, I think I would have hitchhiked with them...

I think some of the locals may need a new travel agent...

Here are the results from who I know/can figure out:

Pro Lite SC 17.5
Kevin McDaniels - A Main 12th
Toddie Anderson - B Main 11th
Toddie Anderson - C Main 6th (bump?)

2wd open
Mike Wilder - A Main - qual'd 9th - no listing in the main finals scoring sheet
Mark Smyka - B Main 6th
Cory Bernardo - B Main 7th
Chris Christo - B Main 8th
Toddie Anderson - B Main 12th
Chris Christo - C Main 1st (bump)
Mark Smyka - C Main 2nd (bump)
Dan Laurence - C Main 12th
Liam Laurence - D Main 10th

Pro 4 SC
Todd Anderson - B Main 12th
Dan Laurence - D Main 9th
Liam Laurence - D Main 11th

2wd Stock
Mark Smyka - A Main 3rd
Kevin McDaniels - A Main 12th
Cory Bernardo - B Main 5th

Truck Open
Chris Christo - A Main 8th

Nice way to represent the local scene, there are some really good results. I just wish there were less DNSs listed... Looking forward to hearing experiences and things that happened at the race.

The engines sound so lethargic compared to on-road... http://youtu.be/fTuiAkv0l08

0 - 100 in 4.92 seconds. You wouldn't need a nascar track to see those speeds.

Do you really want to get into tech-ing equipment at a low level event such as club racing? For club racing, the fast guys will be fast. If you feel the need to cheat, or what you have that is all that you could afford, so be it. It's all good. Here is what you want to know to be in compliance with ROAR, kudo's to Kenny for doing all the leg work on this one:

There has been alot of talk about what esc's are legal for blinky/spec racing. Here is approved list if it isnt on there. There is a reason why


Calandra Racing Concepts    CRC4000    Advanced Electronics Black Diamond LV    2.1 software or higher    Has a blinking blue light when the throttle is in neutral and when set to the no-timing profile #1
Calandra Racing Concepts    CRC4002    Advanced Black Diamond    2.1 software or higher    Has a blinking blue light when the throttle is in neutral and when set to the no-timing profile #1
Castle Creations       Mamba Max Pro    V1.26    
Graupner GmbH & Co.    GM-Genius 120    Yellow, Red, and Green blink fast and at the same time in neutral position when the zero mode is active    V13.0    Users must use Mode 0-5 after factory reset or after delivery. Modes 6-9 have high speed timing, no LED blinking. No high speed timing is allowed to set with PC-software. Mode 2 is factory setting. If high speed timing, no LED blinking.
Graupner GmbH & Co.    GM-Genius 150    Yellow, Red, and Green blink fast and at the same time in neutral position when the zero mode is active    V13.0    Users must use Mode 0-5 after factory reset or after delivery. Modes 6-9 have high speed timing, no LED blinking. No high speed timing is allowed to set with PC-software. Mode 2 is factory setting. If high speed timing, no LED blinking.
Graupner GmbH & Co.    GM-Genius 75    Yellow, Red, and Green blink fast and at the same time in neutral position when the zero mode is active    Software Version V13.0    Users must use Mode 0-5 after factory reset or after delivery. Modes 6-9 have high speed timing, no LED blinking. No high speed timing is allowed to set with PC-software. Mode 2 is factory setting. If high speed timing, no LED blinking.
Graupner GmbH & Co.    GM-Genius 90    Yellow, Red, and Green blink fast and at the same time in neutral position when the zero mode is active    V13.0    Users must use Mode 0-5 after factory reset or after delivery. Modes 6-9 have high speed timing, no LED blinking. No high speed timing is allowed to set with PC-software. Mode 2 is factory setting. If high speed timing, no LED blinking.
Hobbico    DTXM1300    Duratrax DE10 Brushless Programable ESC       A blinking green LED will be displayed when the ESC is at 0 (zero) degrees of timing and the throttle is at neutral. Also, if the ESC is at any advancement in timing the LED will be solid green
Hobbywing    81020000(blue) or 81020011(black)    Justock Club SPEC    N/A    Zero timing and non-adjustable
Hobbywing    81020010(blue) or 81020011(black)    Xtreme Stock    508    Zero timing – the RED LED Flashes when the ESC is active and throttle in neutral position.
Hobbywing    81020050    Xerun 60A-SD V2.1 (Blue)    508    Zero timing – the RED LED Flashes when the ESC is active and throttle in neutral position.
Hobbywing    81020051    Xerun 60A-SD V2.1 (Black)    508    Zero timing – the RED LED Flashes when the ESC is active and throttle in neutral position.
Hobbywing    81020170    Xerun 120A-SD V2.1 (Blue)    508    Zero timing – the RED LED Flashes when the ESC is active and throttle in neutral position.
Hobbywing    81020171    Xerun 120A-SD V2.1 (Black)    508    Zero timing – the RED LED Flashes when the ESC is active and throttle in neutral position.
Hobbywing    81020210    Xerun 120A-1S (Black)    508    Zero timing – the RED LED Flashes when the ESC is active and throttle in neutral position.
Hobbywing    81020211    Xerun 120A-1S (Blue)    508    Zero timing – the RED LED Flashes when the ESC is active and throttle in neutral position.
KO Propo    40051    VFS-1 BMC Ver 1.5    Contact Mfg for Firmware Upgrade    Must use zero timing and zero Advanced Profile signified by blinking LED on switch.
KO PROPO America    4100    BLZ-350 ESC       Set to zero timing in firware. Cannot program any timing into ESC
Losi    LOSB9500    1/10th Xcelorin Brushless ESC    01.01.30    Must use zero timing and zero Advanced Profile signified by blinking color LED
Losi    LOSB9503    MSC540BL-S Sensored ESC, 13.5T Limit       There is no timing function available with this. There is no LED indication.
LRP    LRP80100    Ai Brushless Reverse    N/A    Non-updateable; SC has no modes that will give any timing increase.
LRP    LRP80150    Ai Brushless Pro Reverse    N/A    Non-updateable; SC has no modes that will give any timing increase.
LRP    LRP80400    SPX Brushless Super Reverse    N/A    Non-updateable; SC has no modes that will give any timing increase.
LRP    LRP80410    Crawler ESC    N/A    Non-updateable; SC has no modes that will give any timing increase.
LRP    LRP80450    SPX Brushless Bullet Reverse    N/A    Non-updateable; SC has no modes that will give any timing increase.
LRP    LRP80500    Sphere Brushless ESC    N/A    Non-updateable; SC has no modes that will give any timing increase.
LRP    LRP80705    SPX Zero       Non-updateable; Zero timing when power profile is set to 0. Red LED will flash in neutral to indicate zero timing
LRP    LRP80905    LRP SXX Comp V2    1.3,1.5    Mode 3 timing must be set to “0″ signified by blinking blue LED in neutral
LRP    LRP809055    LRP SXX TC spec V2    1.3,1.5    Mode 3 timing must be set to “0″ signified by blinking blue LED in neutral
LRP    LRP80910    SXX Stock Spec Brushless    N/A    Non-updateable. Mode 3 timing must be set to “0″ signified by blinking blue LED when in neutral.
LRP    LRP80915    SXX Stock Spec V2    4.2,4.4    Desc: For Spec zero timing mode, both mode 2 (torque) and mode 3(timing) must be set to zero. Blue LED will blink in neutral
Novak    NOV1709    GTB 2 Sportsman Racing Brushless ESC       Desc: When all timing is OFF, then white LED will be OFF to indicate no timing active.
Novak    NOV1710    Novak GTB    N/A    
Novak    NOV1711    Novak GTB Spectrum    N/A    
Novak    NOV1712    Novak Slyder Drift    N/A    
Novak    NOV1731    Novak Havoc 1 Cell    N/A    
Novak    NOV1732    Novak Havoc Sport    N/A    
Novak    NOV1733    Havoc 3S Brushless ESC       (this ESC can be run on 2S or 3S) No timing built into ESC
Novak    NOV1735    Novak Havoc Pro    N/A    
Novak    NOV1740    Kinetic Racing Brushless ESC    Version 1.0 software or higher    ESC must be set at Timing Level = 1 or Zero Timing (default)
Novak    NOV1741    Kinetic 1S Racing Brushless ESC    Version 1.0 software or higher    ESC must be set at Timing Level = 1 or Zero Timing (default) **Note, this ESC will be shipping in August 2010
Novak    NOV1745    Havoc Pro SC Brushless ESC    Version 1.0 software or higher    ESC must be set at Timing Level = 1 or Zero Timing (default)
Novak Electronics    1850    The Edge Brushless ESC w/Traxxas    000    There is NO timing in this ESC. The white LED will blink during start up to “prove” it works, but will remain off during all normal operation to indicate that timing is “OFF”
Novak Electronics    1851    The Edge Brushless ESC w/Tamiya    000    There is NO timing in this ESC. The white LED will blink during start up to “prove” it works, but will remain off during all normal operation to indicate that timing is “OFF”
Speed Passion    Cirtix Stock Club Race # 12280    No Timing adjustments-no LED    Non-Programable    
Speed Passion    EXT98802LPF    LPF 2.1 ESC (Carbon, Silver, Blue)    V508    Must use zero timing and zero Advanced Profile signified by blinking LED
Speed Passion    EXT98802LPF    GT-LPF 2.0 ESC (Carbon, Silver or Blue Version)    508    Must use zero timing and zero Advanced Profile signified by blinking LED
Speed Passion    EXT98802Pro    GT-Pro 2.0 ESC (Carbon, Silver or Blue Version)    508    Must use zero timing and zero Advanced Profile signified by blinking LED
Speed Passion    EXT98802PRO    PRO 2.1 ESC (Carbon,Silver,Clue)    V508    Must use zero timing and zero Advanced Profile signified by blinking LED
Tekin    TT1152    Tekin RS ESC    212 ** NOTE NEW SOFTWARE PROFILE**    SPEC – Non Timing Mode is displayed by LED 3&5 blinking when armed and in neutral position. AVAILABLE 10/20/2010
Tekin    TT1153    Tekin RS Pro    212 ** NOTE: NEW SOFTWARE PROFILE    SPEC – Non Timing Mode is displayed by LED 3&5 blinking when armed and in neutral position. AVAILABLE 10/20/2010
Viper RC Solutions    VTX10    #6VSVT10001 Sensored BL ESC w/ProGauge    A19    Non timing indicated by GREEN blinking status LED next to letter “S” on V-port switch housing. In Race Modufied/Timing run modes the “S” LED will be off.
Viper RC Solutions    VTX10-Lite    #6VSVT10002 Sensored BL ESC w/o ProGauge    A19    Non timing indicated by GREEN blinking status LED next to letter “S” on V-port switch housing. In Race Modufied/Timing run modes the “S” LED will be off.
Viper RC Solutions    VTX10R    #6VSVT10R01 Sensored BL ESC w/ProGauge    A19    Non timing indicated by GREEN blinking status LED next to letter “S” on V-port switch housing. In Race Modufied/Timing run modes the “S” LED will be off.
Viper RC Solutions    VTX10R-Lite    #6VSVT10R02 Sensored BL ESC w/o ProGauge    A19    Non timing indicated by GREEN blinking status LED next to letter “S” on V-port switch housing. In Race Modufied/Timing run modes the “S” LED will be off.

I've only raced on Sunday for 2 weeks now, so it may be a very limited sample. But, I have only witnessed the first turn pile-up in the A-mains...

In

A couple of things to keep in mind, this is something that we do each year on our own (the reason it is not in the race event calendar). I want to thank Todd for not shutting us down (we also feed him - when he gets a chance, inevitably the shop will be super crowded when the food is ready...).

Beverages - the shop has a cooler near the front door filled with a nice variety, for a good price. I recently saw a 20oz bottle of soda going for $2 at a gas station...

So, I will bring in some antibacterial wipes. For those of you looking for something to bring in, paper plates would be great, along with eating utensils. We will also need a method of deploying the goodies that you all bring in. If you need help with this, let me know. I'd rather have that covered instead of scrambling and serving it cold/warm...

I am going to try to time things so that the first bird is ready near 5:00, the second bird should be ready near 6:00. This should allow enough time to eat, for set-up, practice runs, and possibly racing to start at our usual 7:00.

Sorry, I misread, MRH was an event sponsor.

Ok, totally missed this one - nobody said anything (I would have been trying to figure out how to go - its good I didn't...). Thanks to Bruce for bringing it to our attention. Congrats are in order for a bunch of local guys that made a road trip to the Middle River Hobbies shop in Maryland (really nice facility, bunch of nice people there)... For the 2011 Micro East Coast Champs.

John Cravotta wins in 18th truck open A-main
Ron Bushy wins in 18th Pan Car Stock A-main
Ron Bushy came in 7th in 18th touring stock A-main
Andrew Nichols came in 2nd 18th rally open A-main
John Cravotta came in 7th 18th rally open A-main

Nice job guys, hope you had fun. MRH is a nice facility run by a bunch of nice people.

Just go faster!

Mike, been meaning to stop down to look at the track. Last time I was there it wasn't done yet (and you weren't there). How do you think the Traxxas rally cars will do? Got any pictures of the layout with a couple of cars on the track (they can be static - just looking for scale)? Thanks.

This forum will not host pictures. Use another host and link the images using the img tags.

Quote from: MattHiggins on October 13, 2011, 09:05:42 AM

Thanks to Axial Racing, we will be giving away an Axial Wraith rock racer kit on Sunday. All you have to do to be entered is be a participant and hug Kevin Hetmanski.

I've already done 1/2 of what's required... now I just need to get entered.

I got you beat, I hugged Kevin (yeah, big mac daddy). That has to be good for the event win...

That would be Donny Lia.

New Rochelle, NY

Track address:
35 River street
New Rochelle, NY 10801

*PLEASE DO NOT PARK ALONG OR BEHIND THE POST MARINE SUPPLY STORE*

There is plenty of parking in front of our building as well as behind..

Schedule:
Racing Sunday only (for now)
Doors will open at 8 am racing will start 10:30-11:00 am depending on turnout

Race fees : $25 first class $35 unlimited classes

Classes are as follows:
1/10 TC 17.5 NON BOOSTED (BLINKY)
1/10 TC 17.5 BOOSTED
1/12 17.5 NON BOOSTED (BLINKY)
1/12 13.5 BOOSTED

All other classes will be welcome so bring your minis, F1's, World Gt's etc...

Spec tire for all 1/10 cars will be Sweeps QTS32 Real Blue
Traction compound will be SXT 3.0
Tires and traction compound will be Available at the track

You will need to bring the following items:
Table
Chair
Extension cord (50' recommended)
power strip

Nice job Kenny. Now just imagine if I was there? It would have been my car getting turn marshalled by Hara, off-road style, right into your path (opposite last year).

Eric, eat your heart out...: Pictures from Vegas

I knew about this, but was not allowed to talk... I think it is the coolest thing.

I'm sure the people racing rubber tire sedan would be happy to let you race a 27t brushed system while you get the rest of your gear up to spec. They race spec rubber tires (Sweep 32s I believe), which Todd has at the shop for a price that will be hard to beat. Your biggest hurdle will be Lipo power. Your old speed controller will not have a low voltage cut-off. So, when the car slows down, it is time to charge, otherwise you can do irreversible damage to the batteries. You will also need a Lipo charger, as your old charger will not be compatible.

Tire traction compound, the only ones allowed are SXT3.0, Trinity Sticky Fingers, and Corally Jack the Gripper TC-2. Paragon is no longer allowed (unfortunately). Todd sells the Trinity Sticky Fingers at the counter.

As far as 10th pan is concerned, we have a spec class going right now. Tires are lilac (Jaco), team purple (John's BSR) or other World GT spec tires (I don't know what the CRC equivalent is). We are using 21.5 turn motors with spec mode (aka 'blinky') speed controllers, and with single cell lipo batteries. The chassis will have to make weight (1150g). Speed Spec also is limited to using 200 mm GT or sedan bodies like the ones that Todd can get from HPI. If your chassis is an old T-bar car, I'd consider upgrading it before running it, as finding replacement t-bars can be a pain if the car is no longer made.

The good news is that older speed controllers that do not have upgradable firmware are perfect for this class, and can be had pretty cheap. If you can't find a 21.5 for a good price used, it may be a good thing, as fresh motors seem to do well. Personally, I think the old version Novak SS 21.5 seem to have an edge over the new crop of motors. Novak still makes an 21.5 SS combo with a Havoc retails around $150-ish (# nov3036) that would be perfect combo for Speed Spec.

Pics?

Some people at RCHR want to see the new layout and are not on the RCE email list.

maybe they should move into the 21st century with the rest of civilization... the rest of the world gets the newsletter.


(just kidding)

The axle that comes with the kit is the SMR1543 about $20 - $25 (I don't know actual price). This can be substituted with an IRS axle, part number is IRS2103 which has an MSRP of $26.06. If Speed Merchant has them in stock, you can possibly have one tonight. If you need a full axle kit, it will be around $65 - $70 new...

No No its ..lefty-tighty.. right-loosey when you work with flamable gas.

wow, they musta finally capped adam's ass...

Most of the time broken screws are from the screws being loose, this includes ball studs. No, not a good thing to leave screws loose. Good news is that Todd has hardware at the shop, and it is pretty cheap to have a car/buggy/truck with good hardware in it.

If the weather changes during the day, you should re-tune your engine. Everything that touches the engine will effect it's tuning, including the air that it breathes. There is no reason to change the engine head in this part of the country. The engine heads that come in the box are adequate for cooling the engine.

You should get him the PP addy so he can pay sooner... the price of the dollar shrinks every day.

in!

Actually, you all have a serious advantage, as I can't seem to stop tapping out... I dropped my pinion 2 teeth for the main from 42 to 40. Just an fyi.

Did they state how much was being donated?

OE most of the time. Last time I investigated what was wrong, somebody must have kicked one of the connectors and unplugged the data. I will look at it this week.

WOW Dave do you spend too much at RCE

No such thing. It's people like Dave that appreciate that places like RCE exist, and show it. [/soapbox]

Quote from: Mike86 on June 09, 2011, 05:26:16 PM

Someone needs to stop Bruce's reign of terror!!! We may need to put a bounty on him.

Or run a 17.5 

Missed you tonight. Tell Sarah we said hi, and hope she's feeling better.

Just sneaking that one in, summer solstice is June 21, 1:16 P.M. EDT... btw, who has the time to figure these things out down to the minute?

Are you planning to race on a track on the asphalt? Are you planning to race on the carpet? This could affect the answers you get.

For example, if you aren't planning to race at all, my suggestion would be any of the HPI drift cars, the new Traxxas Rally cars, or just about any new or used sedan. I would only ask one favor, when you come to run on the rug at RCE, clean the car inside and out. The majority of people that use the rug are racers and like a clean rug (it works better when clean).

If you are planning on racing on both asphalt and carpet, you will get a completely different answer... Right now the HPI/Hotbodies TCX, the Associated TC6, and the Xray (whatever rev they are at) are probably the hottest sedans on the market for rubber tire racing.

If you want to mess around on asphalt, but get serious on carpet, I highly suggest checking into a Speed Spec for the rug, and find any used sedan or maybe the Traxxas Rally cars to mess around with on the asphalt... Neither cars will break the bank, and Speed Spec is the most popular class on the rug on Friday nights. So, there will be plenty of support.

And get one of the experienced racers help with the final set-up of the radio. It may seem straight forward, however, there are a number of things you can do that will make the car so much better to drive.

Hi Joe!

Anybody interested in a summer point series?

I'm working on this. We can talk tonight and iron out the details...

Wrap a measuring tape around it, divide results by Pi.

I will see if I can piece mine back together...

I will be there a little later tonight...

1100g. sounds good.

Thanks again.  I wonder if that's who I was talking to last Friday.  I was there with my brother and 4 kids around 4pm.  There were a couple of guys that were there getting ready for racing.  I will try to make it down and talk with him some time.

Probably not, Bruce is usually busy until 7ish... Usually arrives between 7:30 and 8:00

There are people racing in Speed Spec class, which is limited to 21.5 motors, that have world gt chassis. Some of these drivers want to step it up and race the actual world gt class. Nationally and locally (when we race) world gt uses 13.5 motors. The noobs that want to try out the actual GT class only want to add a little speed and go to 17.5 motors. Aside from the fact that they already have the 17.5 motors in hand.

The only objection I can think of would be the closing rate of those that have been racing world gt with 13.5 motors.

I personally will not put a 17.5 motor in my GT. Here's why; the feel and tuning of the chassis changes the faster the car goes. So, instead of working with what I would be racing on the national level, I would be changing the tuning of the chassis to suit the different motor characteristics. Is it a bad thing? No. Just a re-tuning thing. I'd rather show up at the track, throw down a car that I believe in, instead of show up, re-tune the car for the flavor of the night motor, and have to worry about gearing etc, and missing the first round of quals because of all the adjustments...

However, if you want to start with a higher wind motor, knock yourselves out. I do think there a bunch of people in Speed Spec ready to turn the wick up... A LITTLE. The rest need more time; 1. figuring out how to get around the track without hitting the walls, and driving freight train style without taking each other out.

How to know if you aren't ready? Look at the fastest lap, top 5 average, top 10 average, and top xx average. When the averages vary less than say 2 seconds from top 5 average to top 20 average, you MAY be ready for something faster. I reserve the right to change that time deviation...

True Timmy
Practice, that is the only way to get better.

There, I fixed it for you.

13.5 NIB - $75

Thanks Nick. After getting stuck in traffic on my way home last night, I took an alternate route that just happened to go by my club (Harvard Sportsman's Club). The gate was up, so I decided to check out what was going on. I forgot that it was IPSC practice night, so I joined in. I have the IDPA indoor nationals coming up at the end of the month at Smith and Wesson... I need practice bad.

sorry... it was time, though. The only thing not done was to vacuum. If someone else doesn't get to it, I will try to get there tonight and vacuum up the rug.

Deal pending on 17.5 stator (consider it sold).

13.5 motor still available.