Author Topic: Some are looking tO bump up to world gt (Read 4260 times)

dougiefresh · « **on:** February 25, 2011, 10:01:56 PM »

I'm in 13.5 t if we have enough ppl by Friday well have a class .... If your in let's see it here

Mike86 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 26, 2011, 03:58:05 AM »

21.5 or 13.5... I'll run either.

dougiefresh · « **Reply #2 on:** February 26, 2011, 04:55:06 AM »

Well I will we just need enough ppl

Mike86 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 27, 2011, 06:44:37 AM »

I'll have both motors with me (plus a 17.5. Shhhh! Don't tell Bruce!).

Don't forget, if you go to a 13.5, you can drop the weight to 930gm.

I know Bruce is dead set against running 17.5s, but it seems like several guys have 17.5s on hand, but would have to buy 13.5s. Either way, we end up splitting the SpeedSpec class, which seems a shame. But I think a lot of us really would like a little more speed.

I'll race whatever!

dougiefresh · « **Reply #4 on:** February 27, 2011, 09:09:31 AM »

I know igor wants 17.5 I have one as well I'll bring them all this Friday it nothing to switch motors

RACERRON · « **Reply #5 on:** March 01, 2011, 05:02:35 AM »

I have a couple 13.5s in my box if someone needs one.17.5 would not be very goood for WGT.

Mike86 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 01, 2011, 06:53:02 AM »

Quote from: RACERRON on March 01, 2011, 05:02:35 AM

I have a couple 13.5s in my box if someone needs one.17.5 would not be very goood for WGT.

I think if there were some used 13.5s for sale, it might help some people decide to try WGT.

Ron, altho 13.5 is the official WGT motor, some of us have talked about just dropping in 17.5s simply because we want a little more speed and several people seem to have 17.5s available. It'd be a no-cost upgrade.

I'm just curious why you feel 17.5 would be a bad idea. Is it just bc WGT should be 13.5, or are there other reasons?

Thx

Mondis · « **Reply #7 on:** March 01, 2011, 07:46:22 AM »

Hi All,

I've been following this thread because I want to get into On Road, and my son does too. I just saw that for WGT 13.5 is recommended, but that 17.5s is what people may be using because they want more speed!?! I am confused, I thought 13.5 would be faster than 17.5. Just trying to get as many facts as possible before I buy anything.

Thanks

Ray

Clinton · « **Reply #8 on:** March 01, 2011, 08:09:40 AM »

I think it used to be 21.5 and they are talkin 17.5 but I could be wrong

Ghost Rider · « **Reply #9 on:** March 01, 2011, 08:27:51 AM »

There are people racing in Speed Spec class, which is limited to 21.5 motors, that have world gt chassis. Some of these drivers want to step it up and race the actual world gt class. Nationally and locally (when we race) world gt uses 13.5 motors. The noobs that want to try out the actual GT class only want to add a little speed and go to 17.5 motors. Aside from the fact that they already have the 17.5 motors in hand.

The only objection I can think of would be the closing rate of those that have been racing world gt with 13.5 motors.

I personally will not put a 17.5 motor in my GT. Here's why; the feel and tuning of the chassis changes the faster the car goes. So, instead of working with what I would be racing on the national level, I would be changing the tuning of the chassis to suit the different motor characteristics. Is it a bad thing? No. Just a re-tuning thing. I'd rather show up at the track, throw down a car that I believe in, instead of show up, re-tune the car for the flavor of the night motor, and have to worry about gearing etc, and missing the first round of quals because of all the adjustments...

However, if you want to start with a higher wind motor, knock yourselves out. I do think there a bunch of people in Speed Spec ready to turn the wick up... A LITTLE. The rest need more time; 1. figuring out how to get around the track without hitting the walls, and driving freight train style without taking each other out.

How to know if you aren't ready? Look at the fastest lap, top 5 average, top 10 average, and top xx average. When the averages vary less than say 2 seconds from top 5 average to top 20 average, you MAY be ready for something faster. I reserve the right to change that time deviation...

Mike86 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 01, 2011, 08:32:42 AM »

Quote from: Mondis on March 01, 2011, 07:46:22 AM

Hi All,

I've been following this thread because I want to get into On Road, and my son does too. I just saw that for WGT 13.5 is recommended, but that 17.5s is what people may be using because they want more speed!?! I am confused, I thought 13.5 would be faster than 17.5. Just trying to get as many facts as possible before I buy anything.

Thanks

Ray

Hi, Ray

For WGT, the official rules call for a 13.5 motor. You're correct that a 13.5 is faster than a 17.5.

The WGT class has been dormant recently -- no one's run it for several weeks. The biggest class is usually SpeedSpec, which runs 21.5 motors. There's an official SpeedSpec car (by SpeedMerchant), but there are also some other cars in this class, too, ranging from SpeedSpec cars with different front ends, to older WGT cars. There's a weight rule that really keeps us all pretty evenly matched.

SpeedSpec is a great class to get into on-road. The 21.5 is pretty mild, and you tend to race with others who are learning, too. But there are also some more experienced drivers, which is good, because we learn from them.

Recently, though, some of us running in SpeedSpec have been feeling like we'd like to have a little more speed.

A lot of us are still fairly new to this, so we've been talking about maybe trying 17.5s instead of making the jump right to WGT and 13.5s -- and a lot of guys already own a 17.5 and would need to buy a 13.5.

The discussion you're seeing here is just about whether adding a 17.5 class makes any sense. The people that own 17.5s seem to be in favor of it, while other people feel like there's no need, that a 21.5 and a 13.5 class are enough. Basically, just "man up" and make the jump.

However it works out, it'd be great to see a couple new drivers on Friday nights. If you're both new to this, then SpeedSpec with a 21.5 motor is an excellent place to start.

Mike

Mike86 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 01, 2011, 09:01:14 AM »

Quote from: Ghost Rider on March 01, 2011, 08:27:51 AM

The only objection I can think of would be the closing rate of those that have been racing world gt with 13.5 motors.

>>> I think we were picturing a group of cars just with 17.5s, not mixing them with 13.5s. Having cars on the track with very different speeds could be a mess.

I personally will not put a 17.5 motor in my GT. Here's why; the feel and tuning of the chassis changes the faster the car goes. So, instead of working with what I would be racing on the national level, I would be changing the tuning of the chassis to suit the different motor characteristics.

>>> Totally makes sense. But I'm not sure if any of us currently running SpeedSpec have any plans beyond racing on Friday nights. And i haven't seen a WGT class on the track for quite a while. You're all obsessed with your 1/12 scale cars!

However, if you want to start with a higher wind motor, knock yourselves out. I do think there a bunch of people in Speed Spec ready to turn the wick up... A LITTLE. The rest need more time; 1. figuring out how to get around the track without hitting the walls, and driving freight train style without taking each other out.

>>> I like the 17.5 idea for a couple reasons: 1.) I think most of us would tear up a lot of tires and bodies if we went to 13.5 at this point, and 2.) it would suck if people spent $80 on a 13.5 and decided they didn't like running WGT. The people talking about running 17.5s already own them.
If people do decide to run 17.5, I'd suggest keeping the SpeedSpec weight rule (and the ESC rule).

The downside, of course, is splitting the SpeedSpec class. But whether people go to 13.5 or 17.5, the result is still a smaller SpeedSpec class.

P.S. I'm in Manhattan, having lunch in a nice restaurant directly across the street from the UN. And I'm spending my time writing novel-length replies about toy cars!! My life is messed up.... RC is a sickness.

dougiefresh · « **Reply #12 on:** March 02, 2011, 08:33:03 AM »

i am planing on running 21.5 due i got no practice this week due to getting my wisdom teeth out FML ive spent 2days in pain suck.....

Mike86 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 02, 2011, 09:21:17 AM »

Quote from: dougiefresh on March 02, 2011, 08:33:03 AM

i am planing on running 21.5 due i got no practice this week due to getting my wisdom teeth out FML ive spent 2days in pain suck.....

I had my wisdom teeth removed ... That was fun.

I'll keep the 21.5 in my car this week. But I'll have the other motors with me ... If we finish racing early enough, I'll try running the 17.5 just to see what the lap times are like. And maybe the 13.5.

dougiefresh · « **Reply #14 on:** March 02, 2011, 09:47:53 AM »

yah i hope to be up there early as possible ill have my motors ASWELL

Kenny · « **Reply #15 on:** March 02, 2011, 10:13:55 AM »

You should all man up into 12th hahahahahahaha

Mike86 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 02, 2011, 11:11:50 AM »

Quote from: Kenny on March 02, 2011, 10:13:55 AM

You should all man up into 12th hahahahahahaha

You wanna see carnage? Have some of us SpeedSpec drivers join you in 12th scale... That'd be like going from a Late Model to an Indy Car.

I actually want to try 12th, but I'm still waiting for Joel to put together a back-up car!

Kenny · « **Reply #17 on:** March 02, 2011, 11:51:55 AM »

You'll be waitin a long time if thats the case

Pete D · « **Reply #18 on:** March 02, 2011, 01:02:07 PM »

That "back up car" was promised to me as well, lol.

Mondis · « **Reply #19 on:** March 02, 2011, 02:42:05 PM »

Quote from: Mike86 on March 01, 2011, 08:32:42 AM

Quote from: Mondis on March 01, 2011, 07:46:22 AM
Hi All,

I've been following this thread because I want to get into On Road, and my son does too. I just saw that for WGT 13.5 is recommended, but that 17.5s is what people may be using because they want more speed!?! I am confused, I thought 13.5 would be faster than 17.5. Just trying to get as many facts as possible before I buy anything.

Thanks

Ray

Hi, Ray

For WGT, the official rules call for a 13.5 motor. You're correct that a 13.5 is faster than a 17.5.

The WGT class has been dormant recently -- no one's run it for several weeks. The biggest class is usually SpeedSpec, which runs 21.5 motors. There's an official SpeedSpec car (by SpeedMerchant), but there are also some other cars in this class, too, ranging from SpeedSpec cars with different front ends, to older WGT cars. There's a weight rule that really keeps us all pretty evenly matched.

SpeedSpec is a great class to get into on-road. The 21.5 is pretty mild, and you tend to race with others who are learning, too. But there are also some more experienced drivers, which is good, because we learn from them.

Recently, though, some of us running in SpeedSpec have been feeling like we'd like to have a little more speed.

A lot of us are still fairly new to this, so we've been talking about maybe trying 17.5s instead of making the jump right to WGT and 13.5s -- and a lot of guys already own a 17.5 and would need to buy a 13.5.

The discussion you're seeing here is just about whether adding a 17.5 class makes any sense. The people that own 17.5s seem to be in favor of it, while other people feel like there's no need, that a 21.5 and a 13.5 class are enough. Basically, just "man up" and make the jump.

However it works out, it'd be great to see a couple new drivers on Friday nights. If you're both new to this, then SpeedSpec with a 21.5 motor is an excellent place to start.

Mike

Thanks Mike! That clears up a bunch of things for me. Do you know if Todd carries the speedmerchant or can he order it? I didn't see any in the case when I was there last weekend.

Mike86 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 02, 2011, 03:25:34 PM »

Quote from: Mondis on March 02, 2011, 02:42:05 PM

Thanks Mike! That clears up a bunch of things for me. Do you know if Todd carries the speedmerchant or can he order it? I didn't see any in the case when I was there last weekend.

No problem, Ray. Your best bet is to come down on a Friday night and talk to Bruce about cars -- SpeedMerchant is his company. Come on down, check out the racing, and ask all the questions you want... everybody's friendly and willing to help.

Mondis · « **Reply #21 on:** March 02, 2011, 03:34:59 PM »

No problem, Ray. Your best bet is to come down on a Friday night and talk to Bruce about cars -- SpeedMerchant is his company. Come on down, check out the racing, and ask all the questions you want... everybody's friendly and willing to help.
[/quote]

Thanks again. I wonder if that's who I was talking to last Friday. I was there with my brother and 4 kids around 4pm. There were a couple of guys that were there getting ready for racing. I will try to make it down and talk with him some time.

Ghost Rider · « **Reply #22 on:** March 02, 2011, 04:58:06 PM »

Quote from: Mondis on March 02, 2011, 03:34:59 PM

Thanks again. I wonder if that's who I was talking to last Friday. I was there with my brother and 4 kids around 4pm. There were a couple of guys that were there getting ready for racing. I will try to make it down and talk with him some time.

Probably not, Bruce is usually busy until 7ish... Usually arrives between 7:30 and 8:00

SpeedMerchant · « **Reply #23 on:** March 02, 2011, 09:32:12 PM »

SpeedSpecs should be in stock at RCE.

If they're sold out, I can have one there Friday afternoon.

Take care.-Bruce

RCExcitement · « **Reply #24 on:** March 03, 2011, 01:40:20 AM »

I believe we have a SpeedSpec and a World GT in stock. I'll double check when I get in.

Todd

Mondis · « **Reply #25 on:** March 03, 2011, 04:41:08 AM »

Thanks Bruce/Todd, I really appreciate your help with this. What are we looking at for cost on this, I know it's just the roller and I will need a body and all the electronics, but for this one at least I will be buying it for my 12 year old son, then I will probably get one for me, since I will hit the 6 purchase mark!

and with 2 cars a Velineon upgrade for my slash and the 4PL I bought it should be a nice 10% to put toward it!

Todd do you have bodies for these in stock or will I need to order one?

Thanks again, you guys rock!.....and roll!
Ray

RCExcitement · « **Reply #26 on:** March 03, 2011, 08:22:05 AM »

We have both the SpeedSpec 2 $189.99 and the World GT $269.99 in stock on the shelf and have a pile of 200mm bodies.

Mike86 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:05:49 AM »

Quote from: Mondis on March 03, 2011, 04:41:08 AM

Todd do you have bodies for these in stock or will I need to order one?

Just FYI, people have been running all sorts of bodies -- from sports cars to NASCAR trucks. But WGT bodies like the Parma DB9 and Protoform's Sophia seem to be gaining popularity.

Mondis · « **Reply #28 on:** March 03, 2011, 10:35:49 AM »

Thanks again guys! Great information. Looks like speed spec 2 for my boy as I will have to get all the electronics for it, but when I get mine, I will need everything but the transmitter so a little less costly for me especially when I get my gift card!

dougiefresh · « **Reply #29 on:** March 03, 2011, 05:24:00 PM »

Just FYI, people have been running all sorts of bodies -- from sports cars to NASCAR trucks. But WGT bodies like the Parma DB9 and Protoform's Sophia seem to be gaining popularity.
[/quote] (thays becuz they faster)

Ghost Rider · « **Reply #30 on:** March 04, 2011, 03:24:20 AM »

I need to get another 'cuda.

dougiefresh · « **Reply #31 on:** March 05, 2011, 04:48:46 AM »

(thays becuz they faster) i hate ipod spell checks!!!!!

and hemi CUDA?

Mike86 · « **Reply #32 on:** March 06, 2011, 05:23:44 AM »

Good show Friday night with TEN SpeedSpec cars and the return of the Cavacos (with Matt showing his dad how it's done in qualifying). In the A Main, the top four drivers averaged 13.9 over their Top 20 laps. That's close.

The B Main was won with 27 laps and the A Main with 26. BUT -- there was a small change made to the track configuration before the start of the A, which added about 1/2 second to lap times.

With all due respect, I'm gonna ask that people DON'T do that again. If you're going to change the track, do it at the start of the evening. Don't do it before the start of the main, and don't do it without telling anyone. There were a lot of wrecks in the A, and I wonder how much (if any of it) was due to the reconfiguration.

The debate over motors continues.

Doug dropped in a 13.5 at the end of the night and was flying. And then Bruce hit the track with a 21.5 in his stock SpeedSpec and absolutely pwnd him. The moral of the story? Doug kinda sucks.

Alright, no, that's not really the moral. The moral is, there's more speed to be found in the SpeedSpec class with the current rules package. Here're my takeaways from last Friday night:

-- We can tweak the rules. Bruce is OK with lowering the weight limit a little, if someone will figure out the weight of the pieces on a stock SpeedSpec that can be easily/safely removed. That will be a subtle improvement in the power-to-weight ratio.

-- Bruce and/or Joel are going to start running SpeedSpec. That'll give us a rabbit to chase. It's the American way, people: Competition improves performance.

-- We really need more knowledge transfer from the experienced guys. Best thing I ever saw when I was running Short Course: Someone put together a list of all the things that can be adjusted (e.g., shock springs, shock oil, weight distribution, gearing, etc.) and the results you'd get by adjusting each of those things. A list like that would really benefit everyone in the SpeedSpec class, especially newcomers.

Mike86 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 06, 2011, 09:17:07 AM »

Quote from: Mike86 on March 06, 2011, 05:23:44 AM

The B Main was won with 27 laps and the A Main with 26. BUT -- there was a small change made to the track configuration before the start of the A, which added about 1/2 second to lap times.

Correction: the B main was run on the same configuration as the A. Which only makes those of us in the A look worse. lol

dougiefresh · « **Reply #34 on:** March 06, 2011, 03:51:42 PM »

well yah mike u suck aswell compared to better drivers bob showed us up durring practice.....

we all do compared to bruce and joel ..........and learning to adjust these cars would be great to know how.....i started almost fall came far from my first apperance but theres more to be learned!!!! hope fully friday

Mike86 · « **Reply #35 on:** March 06, 2011, 05:50:47 PM »

Quote from: dougiefresh on March 06, 2011, 03:51:42 PM

well yah mike u suck aswell compared to better drivers bob showed us up durring practice..... we all do compared to bruce and joel ..........and learning to adjust these cars would be great to know how.....i started almost fall came far from my first apperance but theres more to be learned!!!! hope fully friday

There's probably a few guys there that could crush both of us with our own cars. Bob was smokin' on Friday. Only reason I won was because I managed to avoid most of the wrecks. Top four cars were amazingly close in fast lap, top 5, top 10 and even top 20 laps.

SpeedMerchant · « **Reply #36 on:** March 07, 2011, 04:33:16 AM »

Hi Guys,

I'll weigh my SpeedSpec on Thursday, and see if any weight can be removed from our max. I think we can shave an ounce pretty easy.

Mike had asked for some set-up info.

This is a Copy/Paste from a little set-up sheet Rich Chang (Old Skool 12th scaler) had written. By coincidence, someone had just re-posted it on RC-Tech. It's pretty accurate, and will give you guys some stuff to work with.

Have a great day.-Bruce

1/12TH TIPS
FRONT WIDTH
NARROW - more agressive steering
WIDER - less agressive
FRONT SPRINGS
No preload for .020 springs. E-clip preload for .018 springs.
SOFTER – more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.
STIFFER – less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
CAMBER
MORE NEGATIVE – decrease low speed and increase high speed steering. Outside tire will tend to flatten out at higher cornering speeds and have
better contact patch. 1 ½ to 2 ½ deg.
CASTER
LESS – easier the car will turn. But, lose straight line stability and lose exit speed (car will not cut into a turn as well).
REACTIVE –reduces caster at turn in and increases it at exit. However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not set up
properly.
TOE
OUT – decrease straight line stability and can make car wander but it enhances turn-in, especially on initial “cut”
IN –increase straight line stability but make it more difficult to turn
SIDE SPRINGS
If car feels edgy, a ¼ turn of preload can settle car down.
If car does not center up quick enough thru twisties, use stiffer spring.
SOFTER – more side bite for rear end but will be lazier transitioning back to center
STIFFER – less side bite. Faster transition, but can feel edgy.
SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid
THICKER – increases front traction – adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.
THINNER – decreases front traction – decreases steering.
CENTER SHOCK
Spring/Oil combo have greater effect on net rear traction – the softer the spring/oil combo the more rear grip.
POSITION
FLATTER – more on-power steering (to a point)
HIGHER – less on-power steering
SPRING
LIGHTER – more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the
corner
STIFFER – less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little off power steering
OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil
and a hard front tire.
REAR POD DROOP
MORE – makes car turn in harder. More hi-speed steering. Handles bumpy tracks better.
LESS or NONE – car smoother into corners
SIDE LINKS (ROLL-CENTER)
RAISE – raises roll center. Will increase steering.
LOWER – lowers roll center. Locks rear end more.
BATTERY POSITION
FORWARD – easier to drive, less steering. Less wt xfer into corners.
BACK – more steering due to increase in wt xfer. Car can feel darty off-power. This coupled with longer shock (rear pod droop) makes car rotate
harder into corners by unloading rear tires.
FRONT STEERING KNUCKLES
OFFSET – standard on any pancar (but oval)
INLINE – huge increase in steering response. Car becomes really twitchy. Sometimes used on 10th scale roadcourse pan car.
T-BAR SHIM
UNDER FRONT BALL – adds anti-squat – more initial steering on entry and plants rear mid corner and exit (push)
FRONT TIRES
LESS ROUNDED EDGE – makes car edgy and car want to tip over at high speed cornering situations. Can be advantageous on loose conditions
where car has no high-speed bite, tho.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Typical tuning: front tires, center spring, and front tire-dope
In general: anything that stiffens rear end adds steering

Mike86 · « **Reply #37 on:** March 07, 2011, 08:18:18 AM »

Thanks for the info, Bruce!

(Now just tell me how to install those microscopic e-clips in the shocks in your car kits!!)

JoelV · « **Reply #38 on:** March 07, 2011, 09:55:58 AM »

(Let Bob do it. HAHA.) On a more serious note mike, the first eclip should be simple. Then put the piston and use some shock oil so the 2nd clip sticks to the piston and just use a pair of needle nose pliers carefully to snap it into place. Don't let that thing go flying, you won't find it.

Blade Brown · « **Reply #39 on:** March 07, 2011, 10:13:01 AM »

Quote from: Mike86 on March 06, 2011, 05:23:44 AM

Good show Friday night with TEN SpeedSpec cars and the return of the Cavacos (with Matt showing his dad how it's done in qualifying). In the A Main, the top four drivers averaged 13.9 over their Top 20 laps. That's close.

The B Main was won with 27 laps and the A Main with 26. BUT -- there was a small change made to the track configuration before the start of the A, which added about 1/2 second to lap times.

With all due respect, I'm gonna ask that people DON'T do that again. If you're going to change the track, do it at the start of the evening. Don't do it before the start of the main, and don't do it without telling anyone. There were a lot of wrecks in the A, and I wonder how much (if any of it) was due to the reconfiguration.
The debate over motors continues.

Doug dropped in a 13.5 at the end of the night and was flying. And then Bruce hit the track with a 21.5 in his stock SpeedSpec and absolutely pwnd him. The moral of the story? Doug kinda sucks.

Alright, no, that's not really the moral. The moral is, there's more speed to be found in the SpeedSpec class with the current rules package. Here're my takeaways from last Friday night:

-- We can tweak the rules. Bruce is OK with lowering the weight limit a little, if someone will figure out the weight of the pieces on a stock SpeedSpec that can be easily/safely removed. That will be a subtle improvement in the power-to-weight ratio.

-- Bruce and/or Joel are going to start running SpeedSpec. That'll give us a rabbit to chase. It's the American way, people: Competition improves performance.

-- We really need more knowledge transfer from the experienced guys. Best thing I ever saw when I was running Short Course: Someone put together a list of all the things that can be adjusted (e.g., shock springs, shock oil, weight distribution, gearing, etc.) and the results you'd get by adjusting each of those things. A list like that would really benefit everyone in the SpeedSpec class, especially newcomers.

Didn't Even Notice.... But I did notice the jump on the Line before the Buzzer...

I don't think either of them Helped..

Mike86 · « **Reply #40 on:** March 07, 2011, 10:59:09 AM »

Quote from: JoelV on March 07, 2011, 09:55:58 AM

(Let Bob do it. HAHA.) On a more serious note mike, the first eclip should be simple. Then put the piston and use some shock oil so the 2nd clip sticks to the piston and just use a pair of needle nose pliers carefully to snap it into place. Don't let that thing go flying, you won't find it.

Funny that you mentioned Bob. He actually built the last one for me at the track after I lost two of the three e-clips -- took him about ten seconds.

And me? I was trying to build a shock last night. There are now three e-clips lost in my living room. (Plz bring some Friday!! Thx)

Mike86 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 07, 2011, 02:03:34 PM »

Quote from: Blade Brown on March 07, 2011, 10:13:01 AM

Didn't Even Notice.... But I did notice the jump on the Line before the Buzzer...

I don't think either of them Helped..
[/quote]

Yeah... I think that start led to everyone getting bunched up, which led to some of the early crashes.

dougiefresh · « **Reply #42 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:17:56 AM »

i used eric as a jump

TerribleTed · « **Reply #43 on:** March 08, 2011, 05:43:12 PM »

so.... does this mean half of our cars will now be running wgt and whats left over s spec? hope, not we had a great field there for a while ( sorry i havnt shown up as much as i wanted too,,health issues getting the best of me at times lately ) but when i was there racing,there was some great competition out there by everyone even the the slow guys racing between themselves would be a shame to see the class split up just to see 3-4 cars in wgt(we all know how old old racing with 3 cars in the main gets once the novelty wears off...) ok Bruce this is another thing your good at,im shure you can come up with something to resolve this

dougiefresh · « **Reply #44 on:** March 08, 2011, 06:35:04 PM »

Ted he has by showing us we suck my new word thanks to Joel

Mike86 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 09, 2011, 06:53:07 AM »

I don't think there's going to be a big migration at this point. The main issue was wanting more speed. I think reducing the weight will help a little. I think the set-up tips that Bruce posted will help some people find a bit more speed. And I think the drivers currently running well in SpeedSpec might be able to gain a lap or even two just by improving their driving.

That may be enough to keep people focused on SpeedSpec.

But there're also some ppl that just want more horsepower, period. So, it's possible we might see one or two decide SS isnt the class for them any more and try something else. But that's just racing. It's pretty much the same as some of us deciding to park our Short Course trucks and race SS instead.

dougiefresh · « **Reply #46 on:** March 09, 2011, 01:20:51 PM »

Yah I did some more tweaking well see what I can throw down and changed my radio system lost about 2 pounds to the hand :-)

JoelV · « **Reply #47 on:** March 09, 2011, 05:09:17 PM »

Are you sure that was from "changing radio systems"?

dougiefresh · « **Reply #48 on:** March 09, 2011, 06:12:35 PM »

Yah fatigue I can't drive past 2 mins my wrist start to hurt lmao no it wasn't the radio I'm in enjoying it lol but more orless the tweaking that I did like shock has oil in it that's a plus and my toe a little. And thank you jOel for setting up my radio for me and teaching me how to drive I was getting a constant 12.8 for a bit

SpeedMerchant · « **Reply #49 on:** March 10, 2011, 11:58:19 PM »

Hi Guys,

Hope everyone had a great week.

I got my car completely together "race ready" tonight. Threw her on the scale and she came in at 1080grams.

Now that's a stock SpeedSpec, all steel screws, bumper, nerf wings, etc...everything ready to run. That's even a NiMh rec pack...not a little Lipo.

About the only things really small are my Spektrum Rec., and I have a small servo in it, but it's a metal geared, so it's definitely not light.

I would say we can safely go down to 1100 grams, and everyone should be able to make it pretty easily. I'll be happy to help out anyone struggling to make that weight. Who knows, maybe we can get it lower. I'll take a look at whoever has the heaviest cars, and see what can be done.

See you tonight.

Take care.-Bruce

Mike86 · « **Reply #50 on:** March 11, 2011, 04:56:47 AM »

Quote from: SpeedMerchant on March 10, 2011, 11:58:19 PM

I would say we can safely go down to 1100 grams, and everyone should be able to make it pretty easily. I'll be happy to help out anyone struggling to make that weight. Who knows, maybe we can get it lower. I'll take a look at whoever has the heaviest cars, and see what can be done.

Can we drop weight tonight?

Thanks for reconsidering the weight issue, Bruce.

SpeedMerchant · « **Reply #51 on:** March 11, 2011, 05:12:26 AM »

Hi MIke,

Yea, we can start tonight. No problem.

I'll help anyone who is over weight get down to the new Min. Probably only Gor and Andrew. I bet just by cleaning up the wiring we can get both of them close.

Take care.-Bruce

oc-havac · « **Reply #52 on:** March 11, 2011, 07:22:54 AM »

Both Matt and I are 1080 grams also. Not that it matters to us. We are not going to fuss with it.

Mike86 · « **Reply #53 on:** March 11, 2011, 09:27:25 AM »

Quote from: oc-havac on March 11, 2011, 07:22:54 AM

Both Matt and I are 1080 grams also. Not that it matters to us. We are not going to fuss with it.

Not sure, but I think Bruce may have meant 1180, since he mentioned dropping the weight to 1100. I always forget the current rule, but isn't it 1150?

Ghost Rider · « **Reply #54 on:** March 11, 2011, 09:38:22 AM »

1100g. sounds good.

Mike86 · « **Reply #55 on:** March 27, 2011, 04:44:56 AM »

Quote from: SpeedMerchant on March 07, 2011, 04:33:16 AM

Mike had asked for some set-up info.

This is a Copy/Paste from a little set-up sheet Rich Chang (Old Skool 12th scaler) had written. By coincidence, someone had just re-posted it on RC-Tech. It's pretty accurate, and will give you guys some stuff to work with.

Hey, Bruce

How about some info on tire size? What's a good starting point (or range) for front and rear tire circumference?

Also, we've been running the fronts slightly smaller than the rears... Is there a formula, like if your rear tires are "x" your fronts should be, say, 95% of "x"? Does that matter?

Is there a point at which tires become TOO small? A full-size tire is very spongy; the smaller the tire, the firmer it gets. Can you reach a point where you've made the tire too small/firm and it's going to negatively impact handling?

Thanks

SpeedMerchant · « **Reply #56 on:** March 29, 2011, 04:46:26 AM »

Hi Mike,

Hope everyone had a nice week. It sounds like the Short Course race went very well.

Mike, for racing, we usually start our tire at 2.1" rear, and 2.0" fronts. A 10th inch stagger is common. A slightly smaller front tire give the car a "tick" more steering, but if the difference between the front and back gets too large, you get to a point where the car will "push" going into a corner, and want to "hook" coming out.

Also, for SpeedSpec, there is definitely no reason to start tire that small. We have to at big races because the grip get so high that a small sidewall is needed to stop traction roll.

For club racing, a 2.25" rear and a 2.15" front would probably be pretty optimal, but you could get away with running them right out of the box if you really wanted too. Just make sure you have a good super glue job on the fronts, and you would never notice the difference between a large or small tire at the club race level.

Hope to see everyone Friday.

Take care.-Bruce

Mike86 · « **Reply #57 on:** April 04, 2011, 02:30:06 PM »

Thanks for the great info on tire size, Bruce.

How about some guidance for those of us with light cars who need to add weight to make the 1100 gram minimum. Where should the weights be added?

thx

dougiefresh · « **Reply #58 on:** April 04, 2011, 04:07:21 PM »

Was that a dig at me mike lol jk

Mike86 · « **Reply #59 on:** April 04, 2011, 04:16:05 PM »

Quote from: dougiefresh on April 04, 2011, 04:07:21 PM

Was that a dig at me mike lol jk

I'd be much more obvious if I was taking a shot at you.

dougiefresh · « **Reply #60 on:** April 05, 2011, 02:40:43 AM »

well thanks for the couple weights got me up to 1080 ill throw more in buy fri be legal =)

Kodiak · « **Reply #61 on:** April 06, 2011, 06:31:41 PM »

Being very new to this and happy just to get around the track in SpeedSpec, I would suggest sticking with standardized / recognized classes. SpeedSpec w/21.5, while a great starter class, it is my understanding is a local thing, and going to 17.5 would be another 'non-standard' set-up. Although I am not ready to step up to World GT (13.5), I would think running a 'standard / recognized' class could attract more racers as well as prepare us to run the faster classes (as well as the opportunity to race at other clubs/tracks when traveling or vacation, etc)

I do agree with the comment below, if you step it up, there will be more spectacular crashes. The shop will need to stock up on parts.
Marty

Mike86 · « **Reply #62 on:** May 05, 2011, 10:12:15 AM »

Quote from: dragnse7en on May 05, 2011, 08:33:06 AM

I do like the 17.5 I've got, and have been reading about this class in CT, NY, and Australia and it's popular there, especially using unlimited esc setting rules to let drivers get the most out of their motors. Of course the set-ups are different at each track, but I like this idea because it's easy for me to change those settings and tune the car.

The 17.5 idea here sounds great to me. I hope it gets settled before I visit this summer!

The discussion has pretty much died down. Bruce has been running SpeedSpec and he's shown that he can be about 2 laps faster than the rest of us. It's a combination of proper set up and just really good driving ability.

SpeedSpec is a 21.5 motor and ESCs in restricted or "blinky" mode. Even WGT, I think, runs in blinky mode.

There's been a few people talking about running WGT (13.5 motor) but no new folks have pulled the trigger yet.

News:

Author Topic: Some are looking tO bump up to world gt (Read 4260 times)